I don't know when you mean when you write "back then",so I hope I'm hitting the approximate era you're asking about. I'm imagining about,1550/1860 give or take. there were many kinds of formulations,most commonly used was a talc and reddish orange pigment mixed together.they also used a crude sort lipstick style rouge.that was basically made from a compound of bees wax,refined lard and red powdered pigment. in those days the women that could afford cosmetics usually socialized within the aristocracy. the women of the so-called petit- bourgoise didn't begin to approve of cosmetics until much later,probably sometime in the eighteenth century. and since that era passed we've seen a pendulum kind of approval and disapproval of degrees in what is an acceptable amount of make-up. I hope this answer was of some help.