How to Choose and Care for Cast Iron Bathtubs
Cast iron bathtubs add elegance and sophistication to any bathroom, so choosing and caring for them is all the more crucial. Though we think of old-fashioned cast-iron bathtubs as more elegant than regular bathtubs, it’s funny that the first cast-iron bathtubs in the 1800s were actually intended originally as horse troughs and hog scalders. With the attachment of claw feet to the bottoms of tubs over time, they came to be used as we do now, for bathing. Some of the main advantages to cast iron as a bathtub material is a very polished appearance once coated with enamel, an overall durability and easy maintenance, as well as a superior ability to absorb, retain, and transfer heat. Regardless of their origins, they do communicate a certain amount of vintage glamour and elegance.
Material Advantages
“Cast iron” refers to the manufacturing process, rather than to the classification of iron. Essentially, molten iron is cast into a bathtub mold shape, cooled and fire-finished at high temperatures with enamel. This creates a high-gloss surface that reduces even further any potential damage, as well as allowing a potential for achieving deep hues in their color. The sheer heaviness of iron also helps in preventing damage like cracks, dents, and chips, as well as providing great soundproofing—minimizing vibrations and noise. Cast iron tubs are also resistant to chemical damage and keep bath water hotter for a longer period of time as compared to other types of materials, even though they can be colder to the touch.
If you buy you a cast iron tub, as opposed to moving into a building with one, you can get a lifetime guarantee from your manufacturer. New cast-iron tubs can cost anywhere above a couple of thousand dollars. Keep in mind that the thicker and heavier your tub is, the more likely you might need structural reinforcements, especially if you live in an older building. Upon purchasing your tub, asking about its weight should be one of your first questions, before even asking about the type of coating material.
Styles
Most cast-iron tubs are five feet long or less, have claw style feet, and come in five general styles:
- Classic Roll Rim/Top or Flat Rim – This is the original and most sort of claw foot tub, typical between 1890 and 1940. One of the ends of the tub is flat, which is usually the location of the faucet, while the other is round.
- Double Ended – These are rounded at both ends, with faucets installed at a midpoint between either side, or on one of the ling sides, about halfway down, with a drain located in the center. This style allows for more flexibility in terms of bathing position options.
- Slipper – As the name suggests, the overall shape is comparable to that of a slipper, with one end raised and sloped to provide back and head support, making for more comfortable lounging.
- Double Slipper – Both ends are raised and rounded, though one side is slightly more flat than the other. Typically, drains are located in the center, and faucets are mounted on the side.
- Pedestal / Skirted – This type actually does not have claw feet, and rather sits on a skirt or pedestal that encircles the entire base. Stylistically, they can fall under the art deco category.
Faucets & Drillings
The drillings on bathtubs are the holes to which faucets are mounted, and can be divided into three categories: wall drilled, rim drilled, and no drillings.
- Wall faucet drillings—these are on the end of the tub, inside its wall, with measurements in between that average 3 3/8 in. The best faucet style options for this type of drillings include gooseneck, hand-shower attachments, or traditionally shaped wall-mount faucets. The overflow holes are also usually located under the faucet hole drillings in the center.
- Rim faucet drillings—two holes are drilled on the rim of the tub, with a distance of 7 inches between them. You’ll need to get a deck-mounted faucet with hand-shower to mount on the rim of your tub. The overflow hole should be in the between the two faucet holes. This is a most common setup for slipper-style or rounded-end tubs.
- No faucet drillings—There will only be overflow and drain holes, which means you’ll need a freestanding faucet that hangs over your tub rim and is supported by supply lines, or else a wall-mounted faucet connecting directly to your bathroom wall.
Maintenance Tips
On the whole, cast iron bathtubs are durable, and can last for a lifetime if you care for them properly, though they don’t require much. Here are some general tips for maintenance:
- Never use metal or sharp objects that can scratch your tub. Though, scratches are reparable with epoxy paint.
- Clean your tub every couple of days or every week with a ratio of one tablespoon of liquid detergent to one gallon of water or foaming bathroom cleanser. You can also use a specialty porcelain cleaner, but avoid anything too harsh or acidic, as porcelain enamel is acid-resistant, but not acid-proof.
- Another alternative for a regular cleaning solution is baking soda and warm water, especially if you’re targeting oil, grease, and soap scum. If it’s particularly bad, you can mix one tablespoon of trisodium phosphate with one gallon of hot water.
- To remove pain splatters off of porcelain, use a razor blade to scrape off.
- If your porcelain enamel gets chipped, which is actually pretty hard to do, you should have a specialist take a look. Otherwise, most other types of repairs should be fairly inexpensive.
