In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of different wavelengths travel at different phase ...
Pages in category "Water waves". The following 74 pages are in this category, out of 74 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (learn more).
Water waves are surface waves, a mixture of longitudinal and transverse waves. ... We distinguish between deep-water waves and shallow-water waves.
Wave: Wave, a ridge or swell on the surface of a body of water, normally having a forward motion distinct from the oscillatory motion of the particles that ...
Any disturbance can cause a water wave. A pebble striking the surface, movement of a boat, movement of the earth during an earthquake, or the wind. Here we ...
The speed of water waves. In water whose depth is large compared to the wavelength, the wave speed expression contains two terms, one for gravity effects and ...
But it may not be generally realized that Hamilton's optical method, suitably generalized, can be used to treat a much wider class of problems of water waves.