Web Results

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of different wavelengths travel at different phase speeds. Water waves, in this context, are waves propagating on the water surface, with gravity and surface tension as the restoring forces. As a result, water with a ...

owrc.com/rowing-bay/science-of-water-waves

Water Waves by Michael Konrad. Any disturbance can cause a water wave. A pebble striking the surface, movement of a boat, movement of the earth during an earthquake, or the wind. Here we focus on wind generated waves, although the same principles apply to all water waves. WaveFetch Fetch is the distance over ...

labman.phys.utk.edu/phys221core/modules/m12/Water_waves.html

The speed of deep-water waves depends on the wavelength of the waves. We say that deep-water waves show dispersion. A wave with a longer wavelength travels at higher speed. In contrast, shallow-water waves show no dispersion. Their speed is independent of their wavelength. It depends, however, on the depth of ...

earthweb.ess.washington.edu/tsunami/general/physics/characteristics.html

Tsunamis are unlike wind-generated waves, which many of us may have observed on a local lake or at a coastal beach, in that they are characterized as shallow-water waves, with long periods and wave lengths. The wind-generated swell one sees at a California beach, for example, spawned by a storm out in the Pacific ...

ocean.si.edu/ocean-news/currents-waves-and-tides-ocean-motion

Most people pass them by without a second thought, but if you want to enter the ocean, it is important to know its movements, whether to avoid being caught in a riptide or to figure out when the waves will be at their best. Current Affairs. A large movement of water in one direction is a current. Currents can be temporary or ...

www.britannica.com/science/wave-water

Jan 22, 2018 ... Wave: Wave, a ridge or swell on the surface of a body of water, normally having a forward motion distinct from the oscillatory motion of the particles that successively compose it. The undulations and oscillations may be chaotic and random, or they may be regular, with an identifiable wavelength between.

oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/facts/waves.html

Nov 19, 2013 ... Looking out at the ocean, one often sees a seemingly infinite series of waves, as far as the eye can see, transporting water from one place to the next. Though waves do cause the surface water to move, the idea that waves are travelling bodies of water is misleading. Waves are actually energy passing ...

practicalphysics.org/speed-water-waves.html

The speed of water waves. In water whose depth is large compared to the wavelength, the wave speed expression contains two terms, one for gravity effects and one for surface tension effects. The wave speed is where g is the gravitational field strength, g is the surface tension, r is the density of the water, and l the ...

oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/wavesinocean.html

Aug 28, 2017 ... The ocean is never still. Whether observing from the beach or a boat, we expect to see waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in a circular motion. However, water does not actually travel in waves. Waves transmit energy, not water, across the ocean ...